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ILO Expands Garment Industry Monitoring Project to Help Cambodia Maintain Competitiveness - 2005-02-11


Impoverished Cambodia has joined the International Labor Organization this week in a new program to boosting monitoring of its garment factories. As Kate Woodsome reports from Phnom Penh, the country is relying on its labor-friendly image to stay competitive as the newest member of the World Trade Organization.

Cambodia and the International Labor Organization launched the 'Better Factories Cambodia Project' to boost fair labor standards. The project will introduce a web-based monitoring system in English, Chinese and Khmer to highlight if garment factories are respecting or violating international labor standards.

Cambodia's attention to decent labor practices has already made it the darling of socially responsible corporate buyers, like sports giants Adidas and Nike. As a result, Cambodia's fledging garment industry is now worth almost two billion dollars.

The U.N. labor organization now wants to help Cambodia maintain this competitive edge against faster, cheaper manufacturing nations. This is crucial now that Cambodia has lost special trade quota privileges and has to compete as a new member of the World Trade Organization.

Sally Paxton, the general director of the I.L.O.'s Social Dialogue program.

"We think that if the adherence to core labor standards is going to be the selling point for the garment industry in Cambodia, that the Cambodians, and I think they do fully recognize that the two of them have to go hand and hand, and that buyers and that others look at these issues when they're making choices about where to source."

Dan Henkle, the vice president of the U.S. clothing retailer Gap Inc, says labor standards are a main reason why his company is one of Cambodia's biggest buyers.

Gap Inc and the World Bank said this week they would train 650 factory supervisors in seven Cambodian factories to improve labor standards and dispute resolution. The one-year project will cost 80-thousand dollars.

The World Bank called on Cambodia this week to drastically curb corruption, or face isolation from the world's free trade markets. Kate Woodsome reports from Phnom Penh, the country may have begun to put its house in order.

World Bank President James Wolfensohn says the three greatest obstacles to Cambodia's growth are "corruption, corruption, corruption."

According to a World Bank survey, as much as one-quarter to one-third of a foreign investor's profits in Cambodia are being siphoned off by corruption that takes place at all levels of economic activity.

In a roundtable discussion in Phnom Penh on Thursday, Mr. Wolfensohn said the country would have itself to blame, if it failed to become a credible competitor in world trade.

Prime Minister Hun Sen announced an ambitious plan on Friday to cut investment costs, including automating business registrations, and reducing import and export times.

However, no deadline has been set for these efforts, and the government still has not passed an anti-corruption law, as required when the country joined the World Trade Organization last year.

Pascal Lamy, former trade commissioner of the European Union, says the government knows it needs to reform, but is too slow to take action.

"I think the path of passing the necessary legislation, and making sure it is enforced, with the necessary policing, or ability to litigate in court, for instance, is a bit too slow. Not that the commitment has changed, not that the direction has changed, but we need to speed up the process."

When Cambodia joined the WTO last year, it was considered a pioneer, an example of how the world's least-developed nations could gain access to normally unattainable markets.

But international trade experts in Phnom Penh this week warned the country could squander the opportunity, if it does not diversify its exports, overhaul its multi-layered bureaucracy and reduce the corruption that adds costs throughout the system.

Garments account for 80 percent of Cambodia's exports. No country in the world is as dependent on a single economic sub-sector. The country has no alternative export industries to help it diversify.

The garment industry has been successful in part due to a reputation for socially responsible manufacturing. The government is banking on high labor standards, which are required by governments and activists in developed nations, to maintain the industry's viability.

But the international Multi-Fiber Agreement, which provided some protection for the country's garment industry, expired at the end of last year. Now, Cambodia has to compete with industrial powerhouses like China. Experts say this leaves the country extremely vulnerable.

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